BL-24 - Flipbook - Page 155
TRIVIAL PERSUITS
I chose 昀氀avour and character over
distillery, region or age, starting with
a single-cask Bruichladdich from
1991. Islay whiskies typically have
coal tar soap and smoke billowing
from the glass, but this particular
bottle was unpeated and – as it was
only from an American oak cask –
had an incredibly sweet and salty
nose. A true coastal whisky, which
started the evening as I wanted it to:
with surprise, delight and plenty of
questions.
Jonathan Ray of The Spectator
Next up, a (long!) hop to Orkney and
a Highland Park from 2004. Initially
matured in an American oak cask,
it showed wonderfully warm vanilla
and salted caramel notes, with a hint
of Orkney smoke (much more delicate
that its Islay cousins). A nine-month
昀椀nish in a small European oak cask,
known as an octave, wrapped the
entire character in rich toffee and
Christmas spice. Duncan Taylor is
renowned for the octave process: they
began using it in the early 2000s and
it is now responsible for the majority
of their portfolio’s brands.
Now to the mainland; again, I was
hoping to throw a curveball with the
next offering: a 1987 Dumbarton
35-year-old single octave. This
distillery no longer exists: when it
did, most of its production was used
to help create Ballantine’s blended
Scotch. So it is not only rare to see
as a whisky in its own right, but even
rarer to sample it with such age. A
buttery, warm, cocoa and popcorn
delight which surprised many around
the table.
From the banks of the Clyde to the
banks of the Spey, and once again
opened a long-gone distillery:
Caperdonich. The distillery was built
across the road from Glen Grant and
was called Glen Grant No 2 until
the 1960s when it took on the name
it kept until its closure in 2002. A
single malt of exceptional style and
grace, this 50yr old from 1969 was
from a single cask of American oak
only which allowed the whisky to
develop its soft pulpy orchard fruit
note, sweet vanilla, hints of coffee
and light backing spices. It really was
the stand-out glass of the evening.
Boisdale had paired this with a vanilla
cheesecake and the combination could
not have been more perfect.
With only two whiskies left in the
evening, it was time to bring in some
heavy-hitters and there are none
greater when it comes to 昀氀avour
punch than Laphroaig. Renowned
for its bold, heavily seated aroma
and powerful palate I could see as
it was introduced a few faces being
pulled indicating what I already knew
would be the case - not all whisky
drinkers are lovers of peat. With this
known, the Laphroaig Decided to
introduce was 28yrs old and a single
cask which, with its age allowed the
昀氀avours to integrate, dissipate in
some cases and become an intriguing
and far more approachable style of
Laphroaig - a gateway peated dram
perhaps.
Before I reveal the 昀椀nal whisky I
think it’s worth saying here that
although this event was aimed at the
whisky lover, there was more than
one guest at the event who were
beginning their whisky journey and
had come along to learn more and
perhaps develop a love for the water
of life. I have to say that the only issue
they may have after this tasting is
that it may be dif昀椀cult to continue the
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ISSUE 24
exploration when the bar has been set
so very high with the line-up of the
evening.
Mark Thomson
Finally, a Macallan. Possibly the
world’s best known single malt brand
and as such, there were no surprises
here. The 1991 31yr old Octave single
cask I’d selected was exactly what you
should expect from such a distillery.
Big, bold, rich and intriguing on the
nose with cedar, raisins, red apple
and cinnamon spice. The palate followed suit with a rounded, integrated
character some said reminded them
of Black Forest gâteau or Christmas
cake. The bite sized morsel of rich
dark chocolate brownie alongside was
this luxurious drams perfect partner.
As the evening drew to a close,
glasses drained but conversations
still lively, it struck me how whisky
has this rare ability to connect people
— whether long-time a昀椀cionados
or curious newcomers. That night at
Boisdale wasn’t just about rare drams;
it was about shared discovery, good
company, and the joy that comes from
exploring 昀氀avour together. A true celebration of the spirit in every sense.
If you wish to learn more
about Duncan Taylor
please email:
sales@duncantaylor.com
